Day 2 and 3

Weird, it's Thursday evening here, but I know at home it's only Wednesday. And not only did I skip a day by crossing the date line, but my situation last evening meant that I was unable to connect and post my day's adventures. So, here goes...

Day 2

The fog of jet lag #1 has faded, and the view from the window when I waken removes all doubt that it really is New Zealand that will be home for the next few days. Row upon row of grape vines stretch across the valley, and the sky is bright and clear over the mountains (oops, hills here). The morning starts with a lazy breakfast and is topped with a flat white - the perfect blend of espresso coffee and steamed milk. Then it's off to catch the scenic train to Christchurch.

This is a definite must for anyone who comes to NZ. (And yes, it's Enn Zed, not Zee). The carriages (not cars) are about half windows, and there is even an open observation car, for a full view of the incredible scenery. The trek from Belnheim to Christchurch follows the eastern coastline for much of the way, and we are treated to huge tidal splashes against the rocks, mountainous terrain, and fur seals sunning themselves.

But the real treat was the variety of terrain. Flat farmland gave way to huge hills where sheep and alpaca, cattle and deer grazed. And each tunnel through a mountain was a doorway to a new world - the end of the tunnel revealed a completely different scene from the entrance to the tunnel.

Day 3

An early morning saw me board a plane to Queenstown from Christchurch. My heart sank when I found that I was seated in the middle of the row of seats - fore of the wing but not close to the window. And it was cloudy. And it appeared that I would miss what many had told me would be a fabulous view of much of the south island, including Mount Cook.

The wonderful lady (thanks again Polly!) who was booked in the window seat graciously traded seats with me (poor schmuck Canuck), and then when the sun broke through the clouds, pointed out the various landmarks. So I got to see Mount Cook after all. Boy, that's going to be another week the next time I visit this country, it's absolutely spectacular. Even this time of year (end of summer), the top half of the mountain is covered in snow. Very much like the Rockies that I saw only a couple of days ago. And of course, I had left my camera in the overhead, in behind three other people's bags.

Queenstown airport is tucked between two mountain ranges, and passengers are warned that the pilot has to get pretty close to the mountains in order to turn around and line up for the runway. After landing, this becomes even more noticeable. And the signs really bring home the fact that everything here seems upside down and backwards.

It's rainy and chilly, so different from yesterday. Perfect day to do a bit of driving and go down to Te Anau. Perhaps I'll have enough time today to see the glow worm caves. It doesn't take long to figure out the the car is backwards, but not upside down, and off I go south on what they actually call a highway here. More like a country road back home, but that's ok. It's wide enough that the hairpin turns don't really seem all that dangerous. I promise myself that the trip back will take several hours longer so that I can stop and take pictures.

Te Anau, although very small, has lots to offer for food, and I find a small cafe that serves torpedoes and salad for lunch. It's very chilly here for this time of year, about 8 C., although it's no longer raining as it was for much of the drive. I get a boarding pass for the tour to the caves, and find a place to stay for a couple of nights.

The boat ride up Lake Te Anau reveals just how stark and unspoiled this country is, although really, the side of the lake on which I focus is part of Fjordlands National Park.

The caves are an experience like none other, there are no cameras allowed, not because of the darkness, but because the noise would scare the glow worms. We hike part way into the cave, then a dozen or so at a time get into very tiny boats, all light is extinguished, and we must be very quiet so as not to disturb the worms. Their tiny little lights spread across the "ceiline" of the caves, and we silently coast along the cave river to the dark grotto that is home to several thousand of these little larvae.

The effect is quite surreal, and reminds me that we could just as easily be looking up at a night sky full of stars.

When we emerge from the caves, the sun has broken through and the air is a little warmer. When we get back to the dock, I decide to do a little exploring, and just a brief drive through the area reveals a beautiful little wildlife sanctuary, where I find a Kekeru (both a wild one, as well as a protected one), and another protected area that hosts a beautiful Takahe.

So, now with my tummy full of lamb (yes again), wine (of course) and pavlova with blueberries, I need to catch some sleep, as I must be in Manapouri by 9 a.m. tomorrow to catch the tour to Doubtful Sound. More later!