Seals and Whales

Yesterday I left my camera at home, and had a real tourist vacation day - I went shopping with Bridget. I think I managed to get enough souvenirs without going over my weight limit on the way back. There are so many things here that are unique to this place, that it would be quite silly to go home without at least a sample.

New Zealand is a land of many wonders. Geologic oddities, flora and fauna that is found nowhere else, and one of the few places in the world where some species can be found all year round. I've learned so much, and have so much more to learn. I hope that in some small way I can bridge the 12000 km gap between home and here by sharing my adventures of the past few days. There is still so much more that could be written here, so far this has been such a brief synopsis. Let me know if you want to see more.

Today my friends took me back to Kaikoura - I passed through here on the scenic train last week - so that I could go swimming with the seals. The weather had not been cooperating the past few days, with strong sou'westerly winds, cold and rain. But today, the forecast is for calmer winds, even though there has been a very early snow on the mountaintops. We decide to go for it, so Bridget packs a lovely picnic lunch and off we go. Along the way, we can see that the sea is indeed fairly calm, but with a bit of swell. There are surfers out close to Ohau. Although the waves are not really high, they do curl, and it's a thrill to see this, a new experience for me.

Disappointment hits when we get to Kaikoura and learn that the seal swim is cancelled today due to the high seas. There are lots of other options however, and we decide to go on the whale watch, which is still going on, albeit with seasickness warnings. No worries. We have a few hours to kill before our tour at 3:30, so back up the coast we drive to see a seal rookery that we had passed earlier. If I can't swim with them, I can at least get a few shots.

We're in luck, there are at least a hundred fur seals laying on the rocks sunning themselves. Mom and Dad seals are mostly sleeping, and the pups are playing in the pools formed by the rocks and waves, or chasing each other about like little children do. We see two little pups chasing each other in circles, just like puppies. The surf crashes over the rocks around them, and it's a scene from National Geographic.

Bridget knows of a walking track close by that will take us to the top of a cliff looking out over the ocean, where Gary and I can get lots of pictures of surf breaking over the rocks. The walk itself is not long, but it starts going up the cliff at a very steep rate, and the sights of the harbour below, the low tide baring interesting shist formations, and are those penguins on that rock?, mean that it takes us about 40 minutes instead of the estimated 25 to get to the top on the other side of the peninsula. We see a perfectly formed lenticular cloud, which is only found near mountains. And stunning vistas of surf and rock.

The hike down takes about 15 minutes, so we have time to stop and see some trees that I haven't seen before, but we're not sure what they are. Gary has heard this is a Norfolk pine, but I admit I would need to look it up to be sure.

The boat for the whale watch starts off having a bit of trouble with kelp in the jets. But eventually they clean it out and off we go to find a whale. On the way, we see terns, albatrosses, and shearwaters. Albatrosses? Wow, that was a bonus. Two different kinds even. Off in the distance is a pod of Dusky dolphins, and they seem to be moving our way. Then we hear the call that a whale has been spotted and we will move in for a closer look. It is huge - a sperm whale that is about the same size as our boat and it's sister ship, just off to our left. All we can see for the most part is the dorsal fin and the spout, especially since the swells are quite high. It stays floating close to the surface for a few minutes, then goes for another deep dive, with the fluke giving us a final wave.

Just as the whale dives, the dolphins reach us, and start swimming around very close to the boat. They jump and somersault and put on a real show for us. It's hard to get pictures there are so many, at least 50. They're beautiful, with markings similar to orcas, and seem very friendly. They swim close to the boat for at least 15 - 20 minutes, then it's time to go back. What an experience to have seen all these amazing creatures in their natural habitat - no trainers, or glass walls of an aquarium, or cage bars at a zoo.

We finish the afternoon with a large order of fish and chips (sorry, no pics) and take it down to the beach to eat while we watch the sunset. The wind has died, it's nice and warm, and the seagulls surround us, hoping for an easy snack. Sorry, none left. Best fish and chips I've had in years.

The final piece de resistance is a cloudless, moonless night when we get back to Westview, and the night sky is brilliant with stars out here where there is no light pollution. Gary shows me the Southern Cross, and the Magellanic clouds - two things you can't see in the sky in the northern hemisphere. It's easy to imagine how the early explorers could navigate using the stars - they could actually see them. I notice Orion (here it's the Tipping Pot because he's upside down), and see three stars in the constellation I've never see before. Gary explains this is Orion's scabbard. What a way to end an amazing day!