NZ2024 - Leg 15, March 10 Twizel to Haast

If we thought we were tired yesterday.....today we can hardly move without grunting and groaning.  Not tired, but incredibly stiff and sore.  Why?  We really didn't put on that many more steps that we had any other day (we've been kind of keeping track).  And the 20 minute but really hour and a half trek wasn't any more climbing than we'd done.  But Ian fills us in at breakfast - he felt it too.  The bumpy ride in the ute was actually more than just bumpy.  It had jostled us enough and strongly enough that we were all feeling the strain of having kept ourselves upright through that drive - AND we were trying to keep our heads from shaking off our neck.  Fair.  

Breakfast also included some more planning for some upcoming ventures of photo adventure tours, in those out-of-the-way places not many people go, and sometimes not many people even know about.  We could spend all day chatting, but we have miles to go today - or at least, a long drive of 3.5 hours to Haast, with lots of brief stops planned, and one out of the way place to check out.  First we stopped at a 4 Square to pick up some groceries, in case we couldn't find a place to eat in Haast.  Then we were off to find the Clay Cliffs first.

Clay Cliffs is a place that Linda and I spotted from the highway into Twizel when we were here 7 years ago, but we didn't know what they were then, and didn't get any decent photos.  It wasn't until we were planning for this trip that we saw them on Google maps as a suggested photo stop and realized what we had seen back then.  So of course it was a must-stop, to see them up close.

  

We were craving a coffee, one was just not enough after our day of physical exhaustion yesterday.  We found a place called The Pink Glider Cafe, but unfortunately, it was closed (Sunday).  Just up the road less than 500 meters was The Wrinkly Rams - and the lineup was almost out the door.  We had considered getting something to eat there as well, but decided to just get the coffee as takeaway and find a place to pull over and eat some of our fresh groceries.  It did appear that they had a wonderful gift shop, with many leather goods, woolen articles, etc., but we didn't want to either take the time, nor add any more items to our bags.  We only had 2 more days before giving up the rental car, and having to carry everything with us when we board the Trans-Alpine scenic railway on Tuesday.

So we found a layby, really a small gravel parking area, pulled out some of our treats and polished them off with our coffees.  The cheese from Evansdale just keeps on keeping us going.  And it's soooo good!

We knew from the last time we were here - thanks again to our friend Ian - that Lindis Pass between Wanaka and Twizel was stunningly beautiful.  This time we were going in the opposite direction - east to west - so were looking forward to seeing it from this angle.  And this time, we wanted to make sure to stop at the summit.  Linda drove so that I could take some video, which I did, but forgot to then also take photos for this blog.  Oh well, at some point I'll get all the videos onto YouTube.

This was just the start of an amazing trip across to the west coast.  The route to Haast bypassed Wanaka, which was fine with us, that would have been so tempting to stop and see "THAT tree".  Adding hours to our already busy travel day.  As we drove along Highway 6, we were dumbfounded by the beauty all around us.  Every curve and bend, every rise and dip, we kept saying "Oh my gosh!"  to the point where we were sure we should just record it, then play it back every few seconds.  First Lake Hawea, then Lake Wanaka.  If you look at a map, you'll see how closely these are intertwined, and how at first there is a large lake to the right of the car (driving west), then to the left.  We tried to stop when we could, which unfortunately was not very often.

And sometimes, there were things that took our breath away that we couldn't stop - either there was simply no room to pull over, or there were "no stopping" signs due to the possibility of avalanche.  There was one in particular for which we agreed it really wasn't fair that we couldn't stop, because things that beautiful are meant to share, most specifically Haast Gates, an incredible mountain stream that flows under a bridge you drive across, and the white rocks and the aquamarine blue of the water are simply breathtaking.  Watch for it.

There was also Haast Pass Summit - and probably a few that are unnamed, or that I am simply not remembering - the brain is getting pretty full right now.  But there were also a few places that we did stop, and were so grateful that we did.  The light was lovely by this point, and these were just off the road, or within easy walking distance (5 minutes).

Blue Pools - these were pools within a river, that now familiar aquamarine blue over white rocks that seem synonymous with New Zealand - and the water was crystal clear so that we could see the rocks at the bottom of the river.  

Thunder Creek Falls - another stopping point worth a video, because as the falls came into view we couldn't believe this was possible given it was only a few minutes walk away from the main road.  The best part about this place was actually the stones from the river bed.  They were incredibly beautiful, all striped and patterns, we both really wished we could take home a truckload with which we could build a garden path of great loveliness.

  

  

Fantail Falls - wider and not quite as tall as Thunder Creek, and there were a couple of people climbing up that gave it the perspective of size.

It was yet another day that we truly couldn't believe could get any better, and altough it didn't involve helicopters or glaciers, it seemed like it still topped either of those things.  Another day in paradise.

We finally arrive at the Heartland Hotel in Haast, and when we get out of the car, we are greeted with ...... silence.  As in, almost cemetary quiet.  A couple of birds twitter, but no cars, there's not even any cars going by.  When we get into the hotel, however, it seems there's a party going on!  Turns out they have a busload of tourists staying there for the night.  But they are just having dinner, and we have opted to have a light supper in our room from our treats, just so we can treasure this amazing silence.  A sunset and a good night's sleep was just what the dr. ordered.