Monday, March 4, 2024

NZ2024 - Leg 8 - Southern Coast Part 2

 

Sunday, March 3.  If I don't put a date in here, I'll get lost.  We only have one more day to try and see as much as possible along the Scenic South Coast highway, and I doubt if we can do it, even though we left an hour earlier.  We stopped for breakfast at the Catlins Cafe again, but this time it was a proper breakfast as we weren't sure when we would have a chance for lunch.  

We wanted to start at Curio Bay, but there was one stop before that we had seen the evening before on the drive back to Kaka Point, and we wanted to see it in better light.  Florence Hill Lookout, just outside Papatowai, is an absolute must-see.  It is at the very top of a hill and looks down over one of those calm bays where you can - from this height - see all the waves as they form, and drift in toward a large, long beach.  We could have sat for hours watching those waves, and feeling the cool breeze on our faces, and the sun warming us.  There are many other places similar to this, but somehow we just had to watch this as long as we could.


  

Finally, we decided we'd better get going to Curio Bay, otherwise we would never fit in everything.  I had lots of stops in mind.  One of them was Niagara Falls - because, well, it Linda lives 10 minutes from the "real" Niagara Falls, Canada, which is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.  And, we've heard this one is the smallest waterfall in the world (someone had a sense of humour naming it!).  As we drove, we were looking for a public toilet, and weren't seeing one, but then we saw a sign for the Niagara Falls Cafe, and I was kind of craving a flat white - along with a bathroom.  So we parked in the lot, and went through a very cool gate, and into what looked like a former school.  Which it was!  It was absolutely beautiful, with a large gift shop, and a well stocked cooler of slices, and a menu....  We just wanted a coffee, but were fascinated with the beautiful outdoor area, and the sun was warming up.

When we were ready to leave (after purchasing a couple of souvenirs as well as the coffees), we stepped out into a most beautiful garden, full of charm and colour with the full school profile as a background.  We took our time, realizing that this was as much a part of the country as any natural wonder such as the waterfalls.  This is the kind of thing that is a cultural wonder, and should be treasured as much, and as such.


  

  


    

But Curio Bay worked it's magic too.  We had to stop at the campground office to get directions, as it appeared the road ended there.  We learned that the road that goes toward the Surfing School also leads to the best viewing area from the top of a cliff, and on the other side of the point, the bay itself which hosts an enormous beach area.  We managed to get there at low tide, or very close to it, which meant there was tons of room to wander out into the water, and experience the bay to it's fullest.

We breathed deeply to get as much of the fresh, clean sea air into our lungs as we could.  We covered our feet in the soft sand and the cool water.  We watched as tiny holes in the sand "breathed" for the clams below, creating fascinating patterns in the sand as the water covered them, and then washed back again.  We watched others bathe in the sun, or kayak, or dig in the sand and the rocks (not sure what they were digging for).  No surfers today though.  Nor penguins.  Nor dolphins.

  

  

  

Finally, although we wanted to stay all day, we knew we had to get going or we wouldn't see any of the other things, as it was already past 2 pm.  Our next stop was MacLean Falls Track, west of Papatowai, and a bit of a drive off the road, that reminded us of the road up to Milford Sound - narrow, the odd hairpin turn, gravel, steep, but finally we reached the trail head.  The beginning of the trail was worth it for the bird song opera that covered us - not just chirping and peeping, but full on songs that were like a symphony of happiness.  After a few minutes we entered what seemed to be a bit like a jungle, or rainforest.  Everything was wet, even though there was no rain, and the canopy was thick with greenery - ferns, evergreens and deciduous trees of all types, blanketing us with calmness and peace.  The trek in was relatively easy and there were frequent places worth stopping to look about and bathe in the goodness of the forest around us.  The path was easy to follow, but toward the end there were some serious steps upward.  No worries, it was worth it, and although the climb was steep, it wasn't very long.

  

    


McLean Falls is stunning - and we didn't go all the way to the top!  We were being cognizant of the time, and even though we wouldn't have time to do much else today, what we were able to see filled our eyes and our hearts.  The hike back of course was easier, as was the drive out (well, maybe).  

Next stop was a return to Peake's Kitchen, where we knew the Food Truck would be going strong, and the meringues would have been replenished.  The food was absolutely incredible - I had the Turkish Quinoa Bowl, with grilled Halloumi.  The flavours burst together in a unique blend every bite.  I had to keep reminding myself this was from a food truck.  Really?  Yes.  Fantastic.  And healthy!



Of course we had to top it off with a meringue, and a second one snuck into our bag - "just because".  What a wonderful place!  

The wind was really starting to pick up, and get quite cool, so we opted to just head back to the cottage rather than try to fit in anymore stops.  We will simply have to catch them next time we come to New Zealand.  The list is already pretty long.

On our way back through Owaka, we spotted a sign that begged to be investigated - "Teapotland".  We pulled over, and found a very large display of teapots of every shape and size and colour imaginable - and other objects shaped like teapots, including a very large birdhouse shaped like a teapot!  It appeared that the garden and display were in a bit of a state of disrepair, but a sign indicated the owner/caretaker had had some kind of health issues and were unable to keep up with it any further.  There was a donation box, so of course we popped some cash in there.  (one good reason to keep cash on hand!  To help others out.)


Landing back in the cottage at Kaka Point, I realized I hadn't managed to keep a little vial of sand from Curio Bay, nor had we taken the time to explore the little village of Kaka Point, which seems quite lovely!  Next time.  Next time is going to need to be at least 3 months!  The wind is really picking up now, and the rain is threatening, so we are glad to be "home" for the evening.  Some planning for the next day, includes taking some time to do some relaxing, rather than trying to fit in everything, especially since a big storm is expected.  Plus, we have laundry to do, and the cottage includes a washer/dryer.  Thankfully, we have brought along laundry strips.

Our next day's adventure - or relaxation - awaits.  Dunedin, you are next.

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