NZ2024 - Leg 17, March 12 Pancake Rocks for breakfast?

When we woke up, we found that it had stopped raining, and the sun was already trying to shine through.  This was odd, considering we were in the rainforest, and it was morning - usually we hadn't seen the sun till at least 10 a.m. and that was in sunnier areas of the country!  Although the plan had been to go jade shopping - in jade country - because the weather was supposed to be nasty, we decided instead to follow the original plan, and go check out the Pancake Rocks we'd heard so much about.  And hope that it was worth the trip.  

We had not yet heard anyone rave about the drive from Greymouth to Punakaiki, the town closest to the Pancake Rocks, but only a few minutes into the 40 minute trip, we were back into the hairpin turns and sights of the Tasman Sea, and I thought we couldn't top the day before, and this already had potential.  It wasn't long before we were once again gasping at the sheer beauty of the sun over the ocean waves crashing on the rocks, and the feel and smell of the sea air.  We may have missed one of the scenic lookouts, but we certainly didn't miss any after that.  

 

As we came around one of the hairpin turns on the inside of two mountains, and looked out at the shoreline, Linda actually let out a little scream.  Of course we didn't get that shot, but just a bit further up there was a turnoff, and we got a little piece of it.

The further north along the west coast we went, the more powerful the waves, and the more intense the sound - literally crashing and roaring, with huge splashes up along the rock walls.  This was one of those times when I used the "big" camera far more often than the cellphone, and there were a lot more videos than normal, because it's almost impossible to capture the full intensity of the ocean, flexing it's muscles in preparation for a high-tide fight, in a still photograph.

Then we were at Pancake Rocks, and it has been a lot more commercialized than I anticipated.  It was almost Americanized, with full walkways, stores with all the souvenirs, and lineups of people getting selfies.  But, it meant that the Rocks and the Blowhole were accessible to all, and probably saved the entire scene by blocking off sensitive areas and allowing people to see safely.  We were grateful that, for the most part, everyone who was there was being polite and taking turns to view and photograph the magnificence that was all around.  The Ooohs and Ahhhs were almost a collective by all those around us, whenever a large wave splashed up through the blowhole or up on the pancake rock walls, sometimes 20-30 meters high or more.

  

  

We were mesmerized, and couldn't seem to tear ourselves away, but eventually we must, as we have a train to catch.  The TransAlpine Scenic train, actually, way back in Greymouth, and there were a couple of lookouts that we still wanted to catch, hopefully in better light.

Arriving back in Greymouth, we finally hand in the little SUV that has taken us more than 3000 km in the past two weeks, has it really only been that far?  It is full of the things we've seen and done - straw from Peter's Farm Lodge, sand from Curio Bay, a couple of stray tags from the sunglasses I finally broke down and bought when I forgot mine from home, and an empty water bottle.  When we hand the rental car guy the key and apologize for the condition it's in, he says he has most definitely seen much worse, and I wonder if he is making enough money....

He points us to the train station, and suggests we drop our bags at the checkin counter so we can go find some lunch before the train leaves - both excellent suggestions.  We find the Speight's ale house and have a wonderful but light lunch and flat white before boarding the train that will take us through some amazing scenery over the next 5 hours or so to Christchurch.  We started in Dunedin a few days ago, came across the South Island from east to west, drove up the west coast, and were now going back across from west to east.  But every kilometer has been worth it so far.

On each seat of the KiwiRail train is a small, flat, brown paper package, and we find a headset inside, with instructions to plug them into the jacks between the seats.  If we wish, of course, many people do not, but in the first few minutes, we are hooked on the smooth voice regaline us with information and stories of the things we were seeing - and the history that came before us that we couldn't see.  We could have walked to the open air car, where we would have had full view of the entire journey, (except for the tunnels), but we were simply too tired, it was chilly outside, and we both felt the need to have a brief nap.  So we stayed seated in our assigned seats and watched through enormous windows to see some lovely views.

  

  

  

The scenery held our attention for much of the ride, although toward the end when there were fewer mountains, and far fewer "Oh my gosh!" moments, I did close my eyes for a few minutes.

Finally we pulled into Christchurch, and we now have to find a shuttle or taxi to get us to the hotel.  We eventually get a taxi, and when we get to the hotel room, are ready to completely crash.  I am able to do the previous day's blog, but not both, so I'm still in catch up mode after the incredibly full days in Twizel.  Since the hotel is not in the downtown, and not within walking distance of any dining establishments, we opt to order pizza through Uber Eats.  It arrives quickly and hot, and we devour it, catch up on writing and then crash.  Tomorrow will be another full day.