NZ2024 - March 15, Leg 20 - Christchurch to Kaikoura

 We woke up in Christchurch, very early.  The Coastal Pacific railway leaves at 7 a.m. and we needed to be there in time to check in.  We had pre-booked an Uber for the following morning, to ensure we would be at the station in time.  It was still dark out, but that was ok, it meant we would see the sunrise from the train - maybe even over the Pacific.  We still hadn't experienced that and this was likely to be our last chance.  

Fortunately, our seats were on the coastal side of the train, the east side for the most part.  Wonderful!  The first part of the trip is very much through the city, and while we can see the sunrise, it is nothing spectacular today as far as colour goes, and we haven't reached the part of the journey that runs close to the coast.  Oh well.  Another thing to add to the list for next time.

  

  

Eventually, we see the morning light over the Pacific Ocean - the water is, as always, a beautiful blue-green and we hear over the speakers that the train will follow the coastline for the next 150 km.  We won't be going that full distance today, only about the first third of that, but will see a fair chunk of it before arriving in Kaikoura.  We also hear that we may get to see a few dolphins off shore, as they have been coming in to feed at about this time the last couple of days.

Shortly after this, there is a collective "oooh!!!!" from almost everyone in our carriage, someone has spotted a few dolphins jumping!  Then more, then more, then a fairly large pod all jumping and putting on quite a show - except that it's not a show, this is just what dolphins do naturally.  It's a real treat to once again see nature as nature is, and not what man has attempted to control.

We soon chugged into the Kaikoura station, one that is taken up mostly by the Whale Watch tour - there is no permanent railway staff here.  And we will be coming back to the same place in a couple of hours for our booking to see whales.  But first, we need to find our lodging for the evening.  I called the Kaikoura Beach Motel, and they were so lovely - there had been a small glitch on my cc and I was calling to confirm we had arrived and would sort things out as soon as we got up there, we would just walk up from the rail station.  "Oh no, dear, that's much too far to walk!  My husband will be around in a few minutes to pick up you and your luggage!  He'll be in a blue Mazda".  

Wow, really?  That's amazing!  So kind!  Sure enough, a gentleman soon drove up to the station and opened the back hatch, loaded up our bags, and five minutes later we were at the hotel.  We settled in, and then decided that we could walk back to the rail station to pick up the whale watch tour, and would stop on the way for some lunch.  I had my backpack full of heavy camera gear, so it was a bit more challenging than I thought it would be, but not terrible.  And we saw a lovely church along the way.

The Strawberry Tree smelled delicious, so we went in, and it was somewhat of a western tavern type of place - with the smell of smoked beef brisket which completed that Americana feel.  However, I had the garlic scallops (which were served complete with the roe), and we shared the loaded wedges, we didn't feel like having American food in New Zealand!

We pressed on after lunch, and got to the Whale Watch checkin with plenty of time to spare.  There were several announcements regarding not checking in until 12:45, and also that the captain of the ship would confirm before that if we even could go, because there had been some weather reports of strong waves.  Finally we heard that the ship would be going, even though there was a system coming in, but the swells could be up to 5 meters at times.  No children under 6, no one with mobility challenges, and no pregnant women would be allowed, and if anyone chose to not go, they would get their money back.  

We decided to go anyway, and checked in.  Then it was waiting time, as they took about 40 minutes or so to get everyone processed - checking in, refunding, or rescheduling.  It was getting to be within minutes of the buses coming to pick us up to take us to the ship, and the announcer came on again over the speakers.  "Sorry to say, but the weather system is moving in much too quickly, and we will have to cancel this afternoon's tours."  Oh no!  This was the whole reason we had stopped in Kaikoura!  But we could see the clouds already coming in, the breeze had changed to a wind, and the temperature had already dropped, so we could completely understand.

It took another 45 minutes to process everyone's refund or rescheduling, and we waited till last so we could sit outside and enjoy the breeze, rather than stand in a long line. I met a new friend, and we chatted about what we would do next, since we wouldn't be out on the ocean watching whales and dolphins and who knows what else.  

The sun was rapidly being covered by clouds, but it was still fairly nice out, so we could only do one thing - walk back to the hotel, and stop and shop along the way.  

Which we did!  Kaikoura is a lovely little seaside town - a beach town - with lots of little cafes and eateries and gift shops and clothing stores and gathering places.  

We enjoyed some window shopping, and watched for a place that we would be able to get to and back for dinner - not easy in a town where there was only 1 taxi, no Uber, and no car rentals.  Fortunately, there was a hotel with a great restaurant only steps away from the hotel we were staying in, and they would be open later.

We got back to our hotel, and rested for a couple of hours, made a reservation at the restaurant next door, for the only timeslot available that evening, as the storm swept over Kaikoura.  A family arrived at the room next to us, and as the children played under the awning, the parents unpacked the vehicle, while the storm raged - wind and rain that was fierce enough we were actually very grateful that we had not been out on the ocean when this hit.  

By the time we had to leave for supper, the rain had calmed down quite a bit, but it was still very windy and it had gotten quite cool out.  All good, it was only about 75 meters to the restaurant, and we wouldn't melt.

Dinner was absolutely fantastic, the service was friendly and efficient without being over the top.  The food was really well made, and the wine was delicious.  It was just what I needed after missing out on the whale watch.  What had started off being a long day of photography turned into a day of walking and then relaxation.  

On the way back to the hotel, the wind was still pretty strong and cold, and just a bit of rain.  A good night to stay in and listen to the howling storm and relax for one evening.  Tomorrow would be another busy day!